(JS=95) Spicy with dark fruits on the nose. It changes all the time with cumin, chill, peppercorns and cloves. Full-bodied with wonderful balance and finesse. Great line and length. Superb now. (AG=94) One of the highlights in this tasting, the 1998 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato saturates the palate with black cherries, plums, chocolate, spices, tobacco and new leather. There is an exotic quality to the 1998 that is particularly compelling. This is a gorgeous, totally complete Amarone from Zenato. (WS=92) Spicy, raisiny fruit, with nuts and minerals. Full-bodied, with a hint of bitter chocolate coming through on the palate and firm tannins driving through the long finish. Classy Amarone, with all the essential ingredients. Good stuff, but still a baby. Best after 2005. 1,000 cases made. (RP=90) Zenato is a sizeable negociant firm headquartered near Verona, but it also owns 175 acres of vineyards from which it makes some interesting selections. The best current offering is the 1998 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva, rich and sweet on the nose with plum and berry jam front and center, ripe and supple flavors, much volume and density, and a lengthy, balanced finish. Drink: 2004-2015.