(RP=89) I finally on this occasion also tasted the inaugural 2004 Maury of Calvet and Thunevin alongside two more recent incarnations, but I was only moderately impressed. Certainly it still seems youthfully - indeed, syrupy - sweet and I don't detect significant sense of oxidative evolution, so perhaps this genre, or at least its exemplars at this address have a wider window of optimum drinkability than I have heretofore suggested. But I'm also not convinced that there are - nor does this wine offer any argument for - benefits of bottle aging. The hints of chocolate and leather in the present instance have their counterpart in the younger wines as well. There is admirable richness and persistence here but no particular complexity and little inclination - on my part, anyway - to take repeated sips.